Three days in the Douro, the quintas I'd go back for

The Douro ruined other landscapes for me. Three days, mostly by car (with a designated driver for the switchbacks).

Takeaways:
- Do ONE full river day, a morning boat leg from Pinhão is the postcard view, worth it once.
- The rest by car, up into the hills, to the smaller quintas that don't get the bus tours. That's where the generous pours and the real conversations happened.
- Port + a long lunch is a trap (in the best way). Plan a slow afternoon after.
- Stay in Pinhão or Provesende, not Porto, if you want early-morning vineyard light.

Most surprising pour: a dry white from old vines I didn't know the Douro made. What's your Douro non-negotiable?